Hook: Standard dry fly hook, size 12 - 18
Bead:Color of choice; I prefer tungsten in nickel
Wings: White goose biots
Tail: Small or medium diameter chenille, color of choice
Body: Fuzzy dubbing, color of choice
Thorax: Peacock herl
Hackle: Relatively short soft hackle (partridge, etc.)
|Tying Instructions and Pattern History:|
This pattern is a combination of materials that are proven and basic to the craft. Primarily it mimics a caddis emerger, but also is effective any time. Why? Because you are using it and have confidence in it and trout are not very bright.
Step 1) Attach bead of choice. I prefer tungsten in nickel. Hook size 12-18. I usually use 14 or 16.
Step 2.) Attach small or medium diameter chenille in preferred color. First cut several two inch pieces and singe the ends with flame. Easy does it. Then cut those in two and you have lots of one inch pieces to work with. The length the chenille extends past the bend is entirely up to you. If quite long your quarry might mistake it for a worm of some sort and eagerly eat it. If too short there won't be any wiggle, which is a "trigger". But, again, the trout will still try to eat it since there are the shiny bead, peacock and soft hackle "triggers".
Step 3) Attach the non-singed end to the hook about in middle of shank. Add a little dubbing over the area of attachment and then wind peacock up close, but not too close, to the head. Run the thread through the peacock a couple times for strength.
Step 4) Tie in and wind a suitable feather for making a soft hackle. Hackle tips should not extend past point of chenille tie-in.
Step 5) Attach two white goose biot feathers over the top of the fly and whip finish. BTW, In forty years of fishing I have never used head cement and maybe six or seven flies have come unwound. Just a waste of time and toxic fumes.